great wonder, great procrastination, what to do during the Easter holidays. Since March rained offers, whether or not to walk in Greece Meteora, if we can not go next door to the Black Sea, little escape from the urban environment or simply enjoy the holidays with family. Genoveva came up with the offer to Greece, but it turns out, that was for after the holidays, because at that time would be crazy Meteora, Given the large feast and the coincidence of Catholic and Orthodox Easter. Abe, all will be able to enjoy the calm climbing days. The campsite will be full, everywhere there will be tourists, taverns will frash, and stores may not work. А ние си ги знаем гърците –; when they should not work, let alone during the holidays.
For the sea was not much enthusiast. Cut hopes with the old comrades to visit the North on a reconnaissance mission, but this did not happen due to a glitch with the work.
Of course, Alex was keen to climb, regardless of where and what. The old crow was hungry from the long winter and this year each prey for him. Няма как –; will climb. And wholesale! Long trails of Vratsa, Bulgarian Yosemite Park.
Something I'm in good shape, considering, last year I climbed 2 times in 365 days. I started well, a few days of rock in 2017, but my head is not in place and seek help, като се обаждам на приятел –; Kosio. Recently he managed to free himself from the grip of ferocious dragon, who eats his spare time, he declares boldly, that will participate. Yes, but it turns out, that he was out of shape and obviously both will fight fears and tight climbing shoes. It's clear, that will make two connections: I Kosio, Alex and Sashko.
Alex and Sashko have their own problems and obviously have planned program. We Kosio will hand out mellow, without straining difficult routes. Few of confidence and if something happened to sgovni, We will go down without much thinking and distress.
Day One / Friday 14.04.2017/
The fix is straightforward. Get up and go early, to have enough time on the wall. Even while we are traveling to divide into two teams, that may need Kosio quickly return to Sofia. Eat sweet cake on the way, It still Easter and must be thematic breakfast. <img draggable="false" class="emoji" alt="🙂" src="https://s.w.org/images/core/emoji/2.2.1/svg/1f642.svg">
In chatting road passes within seconds and are already in route. Решаваме да тръгнем по първо въже на “;в ляво от Ринджи”; and if you feel good, will go up vertically. And if not, We will climb horizontally or only the first lines of adjacent routes.
Both connections go along adjacent routes, a common site. Meter after meter, go side by side. As if watching a race with equal opponent :). Kosio least it difficult to remain in climbing shoes for a long time and feels uncomfortable. At the same time it is clear, there is no way, if he wants to continue to climb up. And it and I have not heard for comfortable climbing shoes and especially those, who stood long in the closet. Our first pitch came good and we decided to go up. people say, that "appetite comes with eating" that with us so.
Yes, ама сега сме две свръзки на една линия и решихме ние да продължим по маршрута в ляво –; “;Рататуй”;. I gave it, I switched loops and he threw. In the beginning I, For the first time it Scramble, but the passage remembered, and before that I was passing. Pleasantly surprised, I managed without a problem and even he enjoyed. Not that there was a moment of weakness, but if the control was in my hands and I was able to silence your inner voice.
Kosio hurriedly caught up with me and after a brief pause for the legs strengthened to a second plate. Our colleagues had already made a landing at the base, the tree.
Alex something slowed the second rope on their route and not to not interfere, gentlemanly wait, to drift away before the second plate. So even earned some very good pictures from a better angle.
great moments! I had forgotten, what is to climb near Vratsa. Unique beauty! river, path, alpine house, woods, village in the valley, rocks and their countless odd shapes. While enjoying the peace movement and the fourth round rope. Something, however, the sky began to turn gray, in fact, from the outset blowing strong and cold wind. well, I came back to the car, to get Fleece. I do not know, Kosio how endured with this shirt. While scramble feel good, but now the site begin to prick. well, that Kosio progressing rapidly.
Direct embodiment scares me
After 15-20 minutes I transfer the remaining loops of Kosio for the final meters. Маршрутът има два варианта –; directly above and slightly to the right, in bracket. EVAL Kosio to reply: "This, Direct option, It scares me more, so will thorn on it ". A better solution than, in this moment, no way there. Just so we can get back to form another central wall this season. While I provide see, how to set Sashko in neighboring route. Makes their playground just down, early slit, gradually reform in the right bracket.
Longer stay in place for more than 40 minutes. Jump to my ears fall. And what would have been if I had not taken Fleece and buff. Once again appreciate the qualities Buffalo. Do not go anywhere without him. Come Kosio, a little more and go, that vkochanih! The wind does not hear very well. And Kosio behind the top edge. But after a few shouts heard covenant: “;Disconnect!”;
Hurry to leave, to keep warm. Scramble very strange the last thirty meters. Namraznah something and seemed to quiver of holds. The route is cruel, but I could not enjoy it because of the cold. В същото време Алекс вече е стигнал до площадката на Сашко и се чуди дали да тръгне –; while I scramble, It began to rain lightly. The wind is strong. Dark gray clouds miss light drizzle. “;I think I'll get away, but if you do not feel, better do not go!”; –; Tell him I. to be honest more because of the cold and the fact that this particular moment in climbing and maybe I was not fully conscious in its assessment. But in this situation it is hard to think clearly. But Alex walked and outputs. Bravo colleague, that failed and Sashko to prikotka.
Trouble on the way down
Going down the rappels, We have recommended to Alex and Sashko to follow in our path abseil, but turned out, they have left a backpack at the beginning of the third line and will have to return to take it into.
however, seriously derail their. We were already below, when they started to place rappelling. Even with throwing rope, things are not looking good. A strong gust of wind blew double their rope behind the edge of Bezengi and it stuck. Sashko went first to rapelira, but underestimated the situation and went down well below the level of entrapment rope. when he realized, that the rope is stuck and can not return to free him, little panicked, or at least we thought so below. I called Alex, to explain, what is happening. He's on top, around the corner, and he sees and hears Sashko. We discussed, what needs to be done and joy, despite the strong wind, he managed to communicate situation Sashko. The fight was long. Maybe come over time, Alex before he could release the rope. He had to traverse at least ten meters away from the abseil time, to reach tight rope wedge.
Surely it was not nice: 160 vertical meters above the ground, Sashko had to provide somewhere, to release the rope descent Alex. so Sashko, alone on the bare wall, without rope, exposed to strong wind gust. But the situation was no other solution. Eventually, Alex managed with its mission and with a large pendulum shift to Sashko. There did playground, to continue with descent. E, at least they were lucky down, that the sun came out and it was warmer.
Another hour and were already below. tired, a little scared, hungry and thirsty, but alive and well. Ready for new feats. Well done, boys! You were once again to fight their fears.
Day two / 15.04.2017/
Connections remain the same and the next day, but this time the plans were different. Алекс и Сашко си имаха план да изкачат “;Оптимал”;. A very beautiful route, with many air moments. Congratulations for courage, but if you want results should be napanesh, so an easy path to the top will.
The events that day were much calmer. It can be, Katerina because of various rocks. And although Kosio and I were not in shape and we climbed 150 meters the previous day, today we felt good physically and wanted more.
To me it was hard getting up. Apparently the wind yesterday, my nose was pozapushen and although the clothes I could not warm up. I prayed, today there is no wind and sunny, to napeka well the scale and pass me.
Pressured by the approaching ceiling
We were wondering which route to choose today. In the end we decided to play it safe. Метнахме се на добрия стар “;Безенги”;. One of the most popular classics "Vrattzata". Perhaps no serious climber in Bulgaria, which not started his career with this route.
interesting line, predominantly bracket and pretty air-climbing. We encountered difficulties, but rather was nice and clean climbing. Още в началото настигнахме друга свръзка и за да не си пречим реших да направя площадката на едно дърво по тур-а “;вятър в косите”;. I have many memories of this tree and this route. Bolder days bolder achievements. Hopefully after another week we regain form and try more challenging lines.
At the end of the tour selected options left. It seemed to us quite inspiring line. And it was more challenging, given category. Kosio not wait any longer and began a new puzzle. Forward with timid steps if pressured by the approaching ceiling.
And pack, do not bend. Movements in the ceiling have good tricks and despite the negative slope is obtained naturally. With high lifting legs and I manage to get out of tight zone. Oh that cool motion! Once again outweighed fears. “;Изглежда по-страшно от колкото е”; –; we thought both after successful climb.
Reaching the site about themselves, We decided to run quickly rappelling and do and standard cable in bracket.
At such moments you forget about any side and focus only on the present moment. Alone on the rock. Seeking the right path. And if you succeed, merit is entirely yours.
You're alone in the fight, but the prize is only yours. Seemed to grow and reach another level. You managed to get away from it all and understand, how simply and naturally all. One more day, where I can boldly say: “;I feel alive!”;
On the other side of the rock. Alex and Sashko also conquered the peak and back with smiles from ear to ear. Satisfied with achievements, exchange thoughts and emotions about his experiences during the day.