Central Wall, Враца –; More than just climbing

Катеренето на “;Големи Стени”; It is more adventure than climbing.

First clash with Central Wall / CW /.

The idea of ​​CW ascent arose several years ago. I do not remember exactly the genesis of this idea and by the enthusiasm, but always stood out there in my head and waiting to be spurred. Maybe all the fascinating stories of Kosio (my mentor in the sport) for similar experiences and struggles, които бяха оставили дълбока следа и възхищение за катеренето на “;Големи Стени”;.

Central Wall Vratsa

So, and I wanted to try and become a part of one such story. Yes, but he was always reserved, when I mention this beast. As if this was something more than just climbing. For me, things were simpler. Standing in the archway of the wall and began to climb. Meter by meter, grip on hold and behold a, the goal is achieved. Definitely imagine Kosio were quite different and clearly not in vain. As if the very route they wait for multiple trials, requiring skills away from the physical ideas and movements. skills, to fight inner voice, who's calling whenever things go wrong and you start to feel out of place. E, that voice calls every time out of the comfort zone. whether at home, whether at work, whether in the city, whether in the mountains, whenever our idea of ​​a situation to disturb, he began whispering to us: "May the better to drop", "I had to sit on the couch at home".

Central Wall Vratsa

Yet that day comes. If I had to earn their participation. Went to trial of several tests. One day Kosio had offered to route Central Wall of Vratsa, it really meant to me. Obviously I reached the next stage in its development as a climber, mountaineer. I virile and if the leader or experienced hunter tribe invites me to hunt together.

I felt proud and very enthusiastic. Unfortunately, that same weekend had emergency plans. sounds strange. Would so many want it, while not leaving immediately. Later I find out, that something of this rank requires respect and even thought to go is a success in itself.

E, refusing this honor and opportunity, I, that soon I will not have such a chance I might have wasted the only option. single, because no one else I would not trust my life so willingly.

Despite these doubts and anguish, The very next week the possibility of repeat. This time, even slightly caused me and my thoughts. With a willingness to embrace the challenge .....

Encho Petkov, Ilya Alexandrov, Stanimir Karpuzov, Boris Ovcharov and Georgi Kirilov, правят премиера на тур "II конгрес на БТС" - Central wall (Vratsa) - the first route in the middle of the great wall. В същият ден е завърен и тур "Винкелите" Georgi Atanasov and Angel Petrov
Encho Petkov, Ilya Alexandrov, Stanimir Karpuzov, Boris Ovcharov and Georgi Kirilov, правят премиера на тур “;II конгрес на БТС”; ; Central wall (Vratsa) ; the first route in the middle of the great wall. В същият ден е завършен и тур “;Винкелите”; Georgi Atanasov and Angel Petrov

We arrived in the parking lot and seemed to exit the car thing we pressed. Not only me, and all were somewhat overwhelmed by the pressure of the upcoming adventure. The tension was evident even in the preparation. Usually quick quickly equip and go without much thinking, but now it was different. If each loop must be in the right place, Each widget well thought-out and tidy. While slowly and strategically arrange inventory, look like giants towering cliffs. At such moments one realizes how small and how magic was created nature. While watching the wall and try to Jigsaw Puzzles unravel as every fold, lead discussion, Who is the most appropriate approach. Identifying the most logical line and go clumped. Here comes time to part with our colleagues and friends, Alex and Dani. They take on its agenda for the day. My enthusiasm is lost rapidly on the day of the great schooling. On the day, I realized that, that climbing is not just a way to get to the top, and adventure, in which you were alone and collided with itself.

За тази схема е използвано сканирано копие от "Vratsa rocks - Алпийски маршрути" Ivan Maslarov and Nikolay Petkov 1987.
За тази схема е използвано сканирано копие от “;Врачански скали –; Алпийски маршрути”; Ivan Maslarov and Nikolay Petkov 1987.

Began the long climb. Early anything different from our previous approaches, but after a brief understanding, that the path is only the first hurdle. Begins an endless scree and while initially fun, since it is rare to walk into a river of stones, after ten minutes and a few degrees increase in slope beginning to sweat brutal and become annoying.

Kosio He seemed nervous and starts with a sharp movement and quick steps. you can tell, that things do not go well. I try to look on the cheerful side, but there are times of falling confidence and questions like: "What mess?” –; A katereneto yet!!!

think, the main reason is ignorance. Just do not expect and caught us unprepared. After an hour ascent or rather swimming in the river with stones, found, unexpectedly easy, previously selected route. Казва се “Винкелите”; and was first climbed by Georgi Atanasov and Angel Petrov still on 14 May 1961.

We look up and things do not look very mellow. now, until you go, You can not be sure what it is. Not wasting much time and Kosio begins the first pitch. Go very slowly and somewhat timid. From the very beginning he seemed not quite uncertain progress. Maybe about ten meters, tension, released two terminals and feel, that something speckle. I can not blame him, especially knowing how I felt, while passing this area and it while I. The route somehow not liking us and wedges I do not thick. As says Nikolay Petkov: ;Between insurance has engaging distance ".

A lift a little up and immediately they cut insecurity. As if we have not climbed similar routes to now. How highly targeted human thought. When you impress something seems to have become reality.

Looking down at the Alpine House
Views of the Alpine House

progressing slowly. After the first pitch I everywhere lubricated mentally. Usually Kosio strop, Who will make the next rope, but now I was not ready even to 5 m. lust, uncertainty and fatigue. Kosio, in turn he was pootpochinal while I climbed the first rope and was willing to continue. E, though the second was a bit more smoothly and successfully. I liked it, that my climb was much more technical and efficient. I used very little effort and was able to enjoy this rope. From there we are become more confident, but the day progressed. The sun was rising ever higher and grew hotter. In the beginning I did not mention, mid-July. Hot July day, which only enthusiasm was not enough.

After the second rope was already clear to both of us, that this experience will be very useful, but will fail. However, continued upward, even far our fun. На трето въже краката ни бяха като гумени –; drifted away from the heat, barely went into Espadrilles. Oh what joy was to reach a wider ledge and to stand with the whole foot. Already about 180 meters above the ground / and you seem 500 m, because of the steep and prolonged approach / I decided, it would be for me this day. Will provide Kosio fourth rope and then rapelirame down.

Amazing view over the river and the Alpine House
Spectacular views of the river and Alpiskyi home

Last pitch seemed difficult. It was short, or about 20-something meters wide slit, meandering in bracket. Kosio seemed very tired and cost him serious efforts to advance. This further led me to beat a retreat. I figured, They are squeezed physical, owing to delays in the placement of insurance and lack of larger friends. However, shortly thereafter triumphantly hear muffled: ;Disconnect!; :The rope is great! Will izkefish movements! You should try it!”

Happy to be here and to have done that!

Well I'll have to test it. In climbing there is something very strange. While I am on the rock and climb much I often say to myself: ;Uuuf, this is the last rope! Only to get up and end today. "A, when you get there and somehow calm and know that you are safe, you say: "Abe, май мога да направя още едно” –; seemed to forget about the anguish ago by minute ago. While under tension person, just do not think clearly and it seemed, it is against the wall, while, if calm realizes, in fact, not so scary and not on the verge. Little did I liken to eating spicy. Would you money and can no longer, you shortly, fade as the great fire, however their eating bravely.

So in this regard, and after convincing words of Kosio / I do not know why and how, but Kosio tends to me prikotkva sweetly / and without much thinking now I'm wearing shoes.

Погледнато отгоре –; the rope was really amazing. Unusual climbing bracket. Stuck purposes arms and legs look, that stand in the air, but at the same time his stable. This last us for rope, It was like dessert. We made some great shots of memorial. And most importantly Frenzy, that can be done by us. Not this time, not without effort and sweat, but we are worthy liaison and will succeed next time.

Relaxing at the end of the day. Trying to hydrate properly.
Rest after a long day. After several rappelling and descending the stone river (video) we are below. as beaten, dehydrated with sunken eyes our other welcome victory. And despite, We do not reach the top, we were winners.


About Author

Evlogi Kirov
Entusiast-adventurer named Evlogi Birbotchoukov, He is known among his friends as Ogi. This guy loves to travel and look for challenges in everything, he touches. He had the opportunity to experience different adventures and emotions worldwide, Evlogi wants to share that feeling with the world and especially to those, who feel ready. As the saying famous Buddhist proverb "when the student is ready, the teacher will appear ".


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